Day 10 – The rise and fall of swell

Day 10 – The rise and fall of swell

Last night we parked in a rough channel.  All night I felt as though I was on the verge of rolling out of my bed.  Some how I didn’t get sea sick, but Nader wasn’t so lucky.  Rocking and rolling all night!  We woke to another day of solid swell.  The wind was on it where we were all the way south so we headed north a bit to find firing sharkeys…… with another boat.  We let them surf for a couple hours and just as our guys paddled out the swell died, as forecasted.  It went from 6-8ft barrels to head high!  Mother Nature never ceases to be unpredictable!  I shot from the tin for about an hour into the dying swell and still snapped off a few bombs.  Not long after the rain started and that was the end of my session shooting from the tin.  Today I was pretty beat, possibly from getting a lot less sleep from waking up in the giant rocking chair (ie our boat).  Since the waves were getting slower and slower with the sets getting farther apart I decided to take a break.  Took a nap and felt a lot better.   The wind started to feather onshore and we were off south to find an off shore peeler.  Arriving about 2 hours before sunset we unloaded everyone into the tin and headed out to Debuts.  It was head to occasionally a foot over head and fun looking long rights.  Very inconsistent but glassy.  The comedy started as Skip and I watched the session go down on the boat as I shot.  Great rides were had and great wipeouts were documented!  Steve snapped another stick and also lost his glasses.  Bummer!  But he charged!  Just as the evening before we crammed into the boat as darkness came and ended another day in paradise.

Ben Hicks

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