Day 2 – Peak battles and long sessions

Lots to hear from this one.

Lots to hear from this one.

Set the alarm early this morning to be on it.  Woke up to cloudy skies and waited until the sun rose as the early flash session will have to wait until another day.  I swam out about 5am with the 1dx and 70-200, a heavy combo.  Its not my everyday surf rig but wanted to shoot a little different that the day before.  It turned out to be a good call.

I went in about 10am, yeah almost 5hrs.  Both Matt and Jimmy stayed about another hour.  My battery had died along with my legs from swimming.  They stayed out as it was still getting better and the wind was still offshore.  Low tide wasn’t until 1:30.  I headed back out with my long lens to shoot from the beach for a bit before they came in.  Just after arriving Matt and another “individual” decided to “share” a wave.  (See photo)  Story goes, (from Matt), the kid paddled around him as a set came and said going right, since Matt really only goes left, he thought, “cool.”  Turns out the kids then decided to then go left after Matt had committed.  Well, as you can see in the photo, either the kid was giving him the thumbs up or not so happy.  Matt got a pretty good barrel.  Jimmy and I, (before we knew the story), thought there was gonna be words at breakfast since we were all staying at the same place.  Turns out the kid works here and was burning all the guests all day.  Spoke with some other guests and they were all stoked to hear the story as he was burning them as well.  Turned out to be a funny photo!  The kid didn’t say a word at breakfast, lol.   Huevos rancheros was on tap, along with a smoothie and large water.  We were all beat and had to take a rest.  My back issue had gotten better but still making it hard to swim, especially since the waves had gotten a lot bigger.  The rest of the day we all did various things to keep busy.  I did some work, watched the new john john movie and more work.  In the evening before dinner, I hiked south to the huge palapa you could see on the beach in the distance.  There was no one there, looked like a beach club or something.  Dinner came fast and by 8pm everyone was asleep and yours truly was editing and writing this.  Swell is suppose to be even bigger tomorrow, fingers crossed.

Thanks to my awesome supporters! – Providing the best boardshorts, clothing and wetsuits, supporting artists from around the world.  – Providing me with the best travel bags and gear – Sun Bum – Protecting my skin in the sun!  – Gitzo Tripods – Supporting all my dry cameras! –  Buy one pair of Solve’s and give one person clean water for life! – Professional camera support gear – The boardshop for all your advendtures! –  World class surfboards made in Florida! – Aquatech SLR water housings – Making the best Water Housings for my iPhone!

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