Day 2: Straight into the green room!

Day 2: Straight into the green room.

We all slept like babies last night from the traveling and woke to a little warm up right Martin had taken us to.  I personally was still pretty jet lagged and felt a nap coming sometime today.  Everyone was up before dark and the crew on it by day light.  I headed out in the tin to shoot the first waves of the trip.  It was mellow and a little inconsistent but everyone got waves before another boat pulled up and a shift change preceded.  After everyone came in we went south, checked Macaronis where there were a handful of boats and even more people, so we continued on south to Thunders where we surfed the last day, last year.  Its a left breaking point with a barrel section that decided today it was gonna hand out some barrels.  Nader and the boys paddled out to an empty lineup and traded off on the double overhead sets.  Wes, Christian and finally Doug all lost their boards with snapped leashes.  They had to rock dance to the beach and collect it.  Wes’s board was picked up by a local while Martin made sure I was to take a picture of the kid as sometimes they take the boards.  Upon pulling up to the dry reef beach the boy kindly gave it back and thus we avoided conflict.  Today I shot entirely from the tender boat mostly because conditions didn’t really present a water shootable opportunity.  Another boat had pulled up mid afternoon session and a clinic started with some Brazilian groms tearing the place apart.  They were all very nice and gave respect.  Literally they put on a show.  Barrels, airs and destroying the lip.  My classic moment was sitting in the 17ft tender boat with Martin telling me stories on his life as I shot.  Like spending nearly a year with Slater, being the first to ever come out and explore the Mentawais and many others.  And of being the captain he is, telling it how it is.  “Mate, if the motor dies, put the cameras down and start paddling.”  Will do Martin!  We rounded out the day with myself and Skip going out for a little photo lesson while the sun dipped into the horizon and the brazilian groms kept dipping in and out of barrels.