Day 3: Swell stories

What a storm!

What a storm!

Headed out this morning after a lovely sleep on bare springs (aka my bed) to shoot flash in the dark.  The swell had risen over night as expected but wasn’t ideal.  But we are here and have to make the most of it.  I was the only to go out which left me no one to shoot except empty waves.  Nothing panned out too well but there was a pretty sweet sunrise!  I headed back in just as the others decided to paddle out.  The tide was pretty high by 7am.  I decided to shoot from land until about 830.  Unorganized peaks came in and handed out a bunch of denied attempts.  One by one most everyone came in from either breaking a leash or having no energy to paddle back out.  Lots of good wipeouts.  The aussies were down the beach rooting them on.

We all came in to eat breakfast and wait out the high tide for hope that it would fire with the outgoing tide.  I didn’t come to perfection like we had hoped.  We still went back out.  The blisters on my feet were raw.  I think the left ankle bone was visible.  Burned!  All I could do was just think about shooting.  I swam back out to try and get a fisheye shot.  Luck wasn’t on my side as my housing had a small leak somewhere forcing me to swim back in soon after.  Almost 10 min later I finally made it in past the rips.  Headed back and switched out the housing for land gear.  Headed up the yoga tower and shot from there!  Nice shade a breeze and excellant view of the break.  The waves weren’t cooperating and the guys headed in.  Lunch was soon after with the best yet, chicken bocadillos.  A piece of fried cheese, grilled chicken on a plantain!

The afternoon came with a storm rolling through.  Amazing what mother nature can do!  Really neat clouds before the lighting started and I rushed back inside.  Once storms passed it was time to go back out, as the waves glasses off.  Thinking I had the housing fixed with a re lube of the main o-ring.  Good thing I tested it in the pool before going back out.  Started leaking again.  So frustrating at a moment like this.  Of course the waves started to pump and I had no housing that would work.  Eventually jammed wax into a seal groove and temporarily fixed for the session.  By the time I made it out, it was almost dark.   No one seemed to care I nearly lost 15k worth of gear to salt water once I got out there.  I kept swimming until almost dark in the pounding waves.  One guy left out there and said, “Man you must get pounded swimming like that.”  I said yeah I do.


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