Day 4 – Eat, Surf, Eat, Surf, Eat Sleep, repeat!

Day 4 – Eat, Surf, Eat, Surf, Eat Sleep, repeat!

I began Day 4 early at about 4 am to catch up on editing and work back home along with trying to remember the comedic actions that carried on throughout the day.  Releasing my signature Turtle shirt soon with Loggerhead apparel as well as a lot of other projects going on.  About 5 am Dave joined me and shot the shit with me while the boat pulled anchor and we headed back south to Meat Locker in the dark.  The goal was to be there at sunrise before the other boat got there so we could get the first session in.  It worked and the guys had a good 3 hour session before the tide filled in and it slowed.  It slowed so much I went in and got my board to catch a few.  Still a couple long rights.  Noel was out charging with an action cam in his mouth. As he would catch a wave and then would grab it to self shoot on the wave.  Not easy to do!  I gave him props for trying and not ending up loosing it or getting a bloody lip!  Pat took off on a beast and ended up getting a ding on his and head his board.  He was out of the heat!  It was a small ding and would be fine.  During this session I would shoot with my 500 from the tin boat as the peak was very shifty to try and shoot from the water.  Our “turn” or shift would come to an end about 9am with the aussie crew jumping in after us.  We weren’t exactly stoked to be “sharing” sessions with another boat, but they were a respectful and nice group of guys.  This couldn’t be said with the incoming boat the Doris that also was full of Aussies.  They joined the afternoon session and not one was social or would even say hi.  Not a good addition to the mix.

We all went back for a lunch, told stories, looked at footage and occupied ourselves until about 2 when our turn would come again.  Dave, Andy and I chased a pod of dolphins for a while trying to jump in with them but ended up looking like a bunch of tourists driving in circles with our masks and snorkels on.  No luck.

Session two I swam out with my fisheye and gave it a go and trying to link up a barrel shot with the guys in the extremely shifty conditions.  Tim the chef joined me in the impact zone to body surf.  It was great to have another person in there to watch the carnage go down as the guys would try to pull into waves not letting them in.  There were some quality wipeouts.  The effort of swimming for almost 3 hours paid off as both Noel and Andy linked up for a shot!  Nice work guys!
Eventually my battery died and swam in as the aussies took their turn.  We all headed back to the boat.   Upon returning to the mother ship it was a classic impression as three of the guys were walking around in yuppie striped towels around their waist, looking a little too proper for a surf trip!

Whenever I shoot from the tin boat an Indo boat guy would drive the boat and maneuver it into position constantly.  These boat guys are constantly working hard.  Always something to do on a boat like this to occupy their time.  These guys are on salary, and work the entire year, breaking just small amounts between down times during the year to go back to their village to see their families.  It always makes me think how lucky I am to have been given the draw of the cards of where I ended up.  Too many people in the world don’t see how lucky they are to live the life the live and the opportunities  they are given.  You might ask, what is their salary?  $500 for a year.  It is relative in that many of them live off the land but still, the wages here are a staggering difference from our American life.  And that is above average for many indo’s.  So  take a moment and think where you could have ended up on this planet.

Thanks to my awesome supporters!  – Providing me with the best travel bags and gear – Sun Bum – Protecting my skin in the sun! – Making the best Water Housing for my iPhone!
Cressi dive gear and Fanatic Paddleboards

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