Day 5 – The day has come

A lot of anticipation was riding on today!  It was our last day and also the first day of a major swell to hit the entire coast of Central American and eventually the US west coast.  Waking up in the dark its always hard to tell if it is indeed bigger.  It was though.  I swam out with my housing and not a flash, as the flash adds almost double the weight and severely hinders my mobility in the water.  It was just myself swimming, Matt, Chip along with floridians Christian and Ben.  The sets were getting bigger by the hour.  I swam for about 3 hours in the increasing surf.  With the strong rip currents it was very hard to position myself to lineup with the.  Christian and I linked up on one as well as catching the others on some pretty good wipeouts, that I will hold back from embarassing them ;).  I got lit up a couple times by jellies again, not so fun.  Pretty good sand burn on my back from slamming on the bottom once too!  The sun was out though finally!  It was a super nice day out.  As the swell rose more and more people came out with their boards and sat on the beach.  hmm.

We all went in to go eat.  I went right back out with my land gear to shoot lineups.  The swell just kept increasing as well the high tide.  For those that paddled out it was either getting a super sick barrel like local Carlos, whom got a couple or get totally pounded in the process.  The peanut gallery increased.  Eventually Matt came back out as the swell was surging and caught a few bombs.  Tucked into a couple but the backwash was keeping it from firing.

The other half of the crew took a cab to check out Popoyo, a nearby break.  They came back and said it was good, but no one had paddled out. Outer Popoyo was firing I had heard later.  Matt and I should of probably headed there.  Colorados was so close to firing.  If we would have left then it probably would of gotten good.

We both went back to the condo started packing and then I went back out to shoot the sunset as the swell pulsed.  Saw some good sized bombs today and Matt and I were both little bummed we couldnt extend our trip to catch the backend of the swell.

 

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