Day 9 – Flatness starts to dissipate

The morning begins everyday with the, clunk, clunk clunk clunk of the anchor being pulled up.  Sometimes as early as 4am.  This distinct sound is an integral part of everyday wherever we go.  Doug has even recorded it on on his iPhone!

We headed to Martin’s right (as in the Martin Daly) at dawn to get the first session of the day in.  It was head high and off shore but the peak was shifty and it went soft quickly.  The guys still had a go at it and snagged a few for a couple hours.  We were joined by a second boat and then a third an hour later.  We got out of there and headed to back to an unknown spot I will refer to as Crocs.  It was still small but very rippable.  It was still very cloudy and not very shootable so I decided to surf.  The guys didn’t need photos on waves smaller than Florida.   We surfed it throughout the afternoon until we were discovered by another boat full of 13 Aussies.  We had just finished but still it wasn’t a good feeling to give the location away to another boat.  Another spot bites the dust.  We headed back to Martin’s Right for the afternoon session with half of us napping the the other half getting a few waves in.  The clouds were thick and it frequently rained, thus reducing my possibility of getting any photos.  The swell starts to increase little by little and we hope the trend continues in the following days to come.

Thanks to my awesome supporters!  – Providing me with the best travel bags and gear – Sun Bum – Protecting my skin in the sun! – Making the best Water Housing for my iPhone!
Cressi dive gear and Fanatic Paddleboards

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