Day 9 – Mother Nature fist pumps

Day 9 – Mother Nature fist pumps

I wake to the chattering of large chain links moving along the metal opening on the nose of the boat.  The anchor is coming up, its 530 am and we are off to check out McFrights as we know the swell is rising  and being on it early will be our best chance at scoring.  We headed straight to McFrights but were quickly joined by another boat.  A couple of our guys paddled out but the amount of people and the amount of waves didn’t add up.  Steve snapped a board within 10 mins, one of Wes’s boards too!  Not a good feeling to snap a friends stick!  The wind was slightly (2mph) onshore and that was enough for Martin to make the call to leave.  We headed south.  In classic surf trip fashion we put in the movie Kick Ass and had a laugh along the way.  At all times we troll when cruising and occasionally catch something.  20 mins in the line starts racing out on one of the rods.  Cliff races to the back of the boat and we all go see whats on.  It turns out to be a nice Mackerel that we eat later on for dinner!  A couple hours later we rolled up to perfect heaving Sharkeys.  For almost 4 hours the boys surfed the 6ft barrels trading off wave after wave.  I shot from the tin boat for about 2 hours until the sun won and I headed in to east and surf from the Trader.  Skip and Christian had lost boards from snapped leashes and had to make the reef walk to get them.  Other than that the carnage was only in the photos.  Into hour 3 another boat, The Huey rolled up.  Martin recalled never seeing them this far south before.  He has been exploring these islands for 20+ years and reckons just now that other boats are coming this far south.  A pretty good run on your own!  Thankfully they did the right thing and waited until our guys were done surfing over an hour later.  A rare thing to witness but a wonderful thing to happen when its firing.  Unfortunate for them just as we got out the wind came onshore….lol.  Poor guys!  We escaped the onshore wind by traveling south and scoring another epic evening sesh at Debuts.  The wind was off shore and there were some 8ft sets rolling through.  I chose (with Martins recommendation) to be dropped off at the small sandbar to shoot long lens on a monopod.  It was no less than 30 yards long and 15 wide.  Maybe 3 feet high.  Just in case I brought a radio in my drybag.  I had to reef walk in waist high water with my pack on my head to get there.  Not 10 mins in a huge set fired off the reef and flooded the sandbar to nearly waist high.  Luckily I am fairly tall and just lifted my gear up high enough.  Soon after I pack my stuff away and called in the tin for a pickup.  I was out of there.  From there I shot from the tin in the channel.  Martin snapped his 8’8″ soon after and joined myself and Tim in the boat, thus the peanut gallery was formed.  Solid sets were rolling through and they were hooting everyone into the waves.  The highlight of the session was Steve digging into a solid set wave with a double rail grabbed grip and side slipping late drop into a bomb.  He made it!  Keep in mind he was on an thick 8ft fun shape.  Move of the day!  Martin quickly awarded him the heat winner!  Everyone else surfed until dark and all 12 of us crammed on the tin boat and we headed back to the Trader, already Bintangs in hand.  Hands down the best waves of the trip were surfed today and the boat was full of stoked blokes (as the aussies would say it)!

Ben Hicks

www.bocaratonphoto.com

www.benjhicks.com

www.seaturtlephotos.com

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