Gas Chambers from a half mile away
Cheyne turning at bridges.
Waking up in the morning I found Doug. If you were going to pass out…… doesnt that couch look a little nicer. Oh, and its a pull out bed….
Power lines falling on cars in a thunderstorm….
Day 4: As bachelor parties go, there are some specific criteria that interferes with charging epic hurricane swell. Partying hard and dawn patrols don’t really go together. So this morning’s wake up call led to only 4 of us getting up and heading out at dawn. Where we stayed in the Rincon area it was maxed out completely, bigger than the day before and really only towable, like Florida was for the first couple days. So we headed east to the lesser exposed breaks, eventually to Aguadilla. The storm surge hadn’t been that high for 20 years a local came to me and said. There were perfect barrels all over but no one was out because of the size and amount of water moving. Its not that it doesn’t get that big here but it just never has this much water moving around. Cheyne paddled out by himself at bridges in town and eventually Shane McIntyre, from PR, (originally from San Diego) joined him. They struggled to get a set with the shifting peak. Eventually they swam up the point to another spot where it was more manageable, but had to join 25 other body boarders. The wave was firing though. A reeling right we had checked earlier in the morning. After his session we headed back to our place where we gathered the rest of the crew, refueled and searched for more. Straight out to Gas Chambers we went and the 2 van crew of 10 split up to paddle out at Crash boats and Gas chambers. GS was wonky, drifty and not really rideable although it looked pretty good from the beach. Crash boats had a few coming through but everyone had to pick em from the crowd, who actually weren’t too bad. All the spots weren’t really swimmable for me to shoot from the water so I creeped up into the bushes and along the hillsides in the nearly 90 degree temps to get shots from land. Everyone got a couple before the lighting storms moved in and we were off to go back to town to check it there. Going back to town, we noticed the beach road was suddenly closed? So we went around and parked in a lot while the pouring rains made it hard to see the break. Soon a suburban was in front of us flashing his lights? We looked behind us and saw four huge telephone poles snapped and in the road. One crushing a car! Wow, omg here I go again with lighting stories on surf trips again. The power lines above our van were super tight. It must of happened moments before we got there. Really kinda creepy knowing that the van the telephone crushed most likely killed the driver since there were transformers atop the pole. Really intense. We booked it out of there and scraped plans for a third session. Went back to the east side of the island and found the swell was still maxing out. There was one tow crew out whipping into 15ft face waves. No one had brought any guns or semi guns to ride so going out wasn’t an option. Back to the crib for dinner and stories to tell the non surfers in the crew.