Tales from the Underground: Episode 7 “The Spreading Infection of Sea Madness”

 

Day ??

What day is it?  Does it matter?  All I know is the days have become a blur and the mission at hand is to get barreled off our faces so we motor north back to a familiar area but drop anchor at an atoll we have yet to visit on this voyage.  A magical little island that splits the swells making for a racetrack right point on one side and a throatier left version on the other.  Unfortunately the winds and swell predominately favor one side usually…”BOO HOO!!!!”, as salty tears creep down my sun scorched face…”U mean I have to surf glassy, 3-4 ft point style rights?” “WTF!?!?!”…what a bunch of brats hey?…One by one we fill the empty lineup.  Ultimately having mock heats and writing each other off.  The cool thing about this spot is on this particular day there where a few swells from different directions hitting, which doesnt make for a razor’s edge point but a few different sections with different faces to each one.  This broke up the massive crowd of 8 and somewhat defeated the notorious shredder Nadar Taha’s heat strategy of sitting up top and waiting for the choice bombs as grade-A sets were popping up and down the reef.  Sneaky Fwed sat at the end of the line most of the sesh and eventually I caught onto the fact that hes was picking off more waves than anybody on the end section that nobody could make from up up top.  It was interesting to see everybody’s different strategies and we all got good ones…As I write this I couldn’t recall what we had for lunch but I’m sure It was one of Tim’s culinary masterpieces of epic proportion consisting of the fresh wahoo that JRoy brought in the day before.  A few of the boys went for the arvy sesh and scored some more good ones.  Being completely exhausted…I opted for the food induced coma.  I awaken to the boys coming in…”you snaked me…he won the heat…i had priority…no I did…that wasnt a 8.5…ect”…bummed I missed out on the camaraderie but needed the extra rest as there was supposedly more swell on the way…Once again an epic meal thanks to Timmy and photo review thanks to the legendary Dave, not “Dan”, Burden as I have ignorantly refered to him as…now I know why theres a photo or 2 that make me look “silly” to say the least…eventually everybody’s poison, mine being Bintangs, sends them to there quarters and the boat rocks us to sleep like babies…

 

Day??…lets just say the day after yesterday…

We hit the right first thing…playful conditions continue at the racetrack with long, glassy, down the line walls…everybody is in and out more or less all morning snagging their share of fun 3-4ft runners.  Chris wins the award for “best ding” taking a fin to his head and asking “am I bleeding?” as blood poured down his face in the lineup.  A minor gouge and not wanting to shave his stylish hair-doo led to Timmy military style super gluing the wound shut.  Theres an unspoken vibe consistent amongst our crew: we’re all feeling good and surfing good and want to put it to the test in big barrels.  Yet we’re at the mercy of nature and can do nothing more than enjoy our time in paradise…and enjoy we do…after a fun surf…Timmy whips up an epic beer battered wahoo “fish and chips” for lunch.  A devil wind comes up and the surf is more or less done for the day.  A crew heads to the island to climb the nearby lighthouse.  JRoy and our Indo Captain Chris take off for a spear.  That afternoon our vessel is boarded by the dread pirate “Doris” in search of a stick of butter and a few Bintangs.  Its always entertaining to throw a few back and listen to the colorful antics of the legendary salty dog.  Originally from Burliegh Heads, Australia; he was the first guy to surf Uluwatu in Bali.  He now, and has been for quite some time, runs his own boat the “Raja Elang” and guides surfers and swashbucklers alike through the Ments.  The pirates head back to there vessel and we pull anchor with a coarse set for a mooring for the night.  En route to our destination…as luck would have it Cain pulls in a spanish mackerel setting us up for more choice shashimi.  With everybody exhausted we had an early dinner, grilled wahoo, split peas, and a pumpkin mash.  We capped the evening with another photo review and many awards handed out.  I reckon the best award was handed to me but thats not for print…we fade off one by one with dreams of more surf…what will the new dawn bring our heros?…will this repetitive cycle end?…do we want it to end?…will we score the humunga cowabunga?..find out next time on Tales from the “this can’t possibly be interesting anymore” Underground…