Sandy Hits Puerto Rico, Day 3, nearly too big and most spots

Near Aguadilla, Puerto Rico

Near Aguada, Puerto Rico

We start the day out in Rincon rising at 5 am.  Gather 8 of us, pack two vans and start the long process of checking a lot of spots.  In fact nearly every spot from Rincon to Isabella were checked.  Somewhat frustrating but a similar situation as many of you have been experiencing in South Florida with the exception of a few spots or you own a jet ski.  Ending up in Aguadilla surfing a spot where no one was out, half the crew surfed and the other watched, as it was large barely manageable rights.  Cheyne got a few out of the session, along with Matt, Skeeter and Jye.  Following the session we ate and then continued to research the eastern end of the island where it is not washed out to surf.  Going back to Rincon, a handful of us paddled out at spot near out place.  Its was about 8-10 ft, double to triple overhead.  I paddled out with Cheyne and made it out.  Got a rest before a 10 ft set decided to tax me.  Took a few and then headed in to get a few shots before calling it a day.  Tomorrow we chase it again and hope it gets a little smaller for the breaks to handle it.

Sandy Beach, Puerto Rico.  Much bigger than it looks.

Cheyne Cottrell boosting on a little inside wave.

Chasing Sandy during a bachelor Party, part 1 Florida-Puerto Rico

Saturday morning view many of us will never forget.

Deerfield Pier loosing against mother nature.

There is an inlet somewhere here.

Chasing Hurricane Sandy Day 1 and 2
As I am completely booked with no time to cover hurricane Sandy sliding past us on Friday it starts to become clear this is going to be a major storm in the Atlantic for waves.  With reports of Miami being the place to go I wasn’t too concerned about missing a day of shooting since the currents and squalls make it hard to cover a storm, with the best conditions still to be had.  Late last night after finally moving everything I race over to Matt Oberman’s house as we all prepare to pack boards for the mornings flight to Puerto Rico.

Checking boards in FLL on our way….

The flight isn’t until 11:30 a.m. which gives me a little window of shooting the swell this morning (Sat).  You might ask, why are we leaving the swell of the decade?  Matt’s bachelor party.  14 of us from around the country are flying to PR the weekend before his wedding and now to also chase the swell.  Conditions look to be pretty good in a couple days when Sandy sends her love to PR. This morning:  Well it was big, clean, and clear skies.  Those ingredients don’t come too often so I had to make work of it in about 1.5 hours.  I waited for the sun to rise and reveal Sandy’s offering to South Florida.  Here are a couple from the Deerfield Boca area.  An impressive site to see as many of you witnessed what could be the best swell to hit South Florida in 20 years.  We all meet at the airport and wait as Matt arrives with only about 45 mins before our flight takes off.  Half the crew had some hope that if we missed the flight we charge south florida.  In reality though we are heading to Puerto Rico where the forecast (when I write this on Sat) is 10-15 ft, and can handle it unlike most of south florida.  As I depart over South Florida I get a few aerial shots from the plane.  We get to PR and plan on the first night to party while we wait a day or so before the swell hits.

In San Juan the day starts out with little waves but by night fall….

The Sandy swell starts to fill in at…….. Sandy Beach, Rincon Puerto Rico.

Inside Sandy Beach, Rincon, PR
Day 2
We all slowly rise from the dead and find that long lost Danny made it back to the hotel sometime in the night.  Gathering all 14 guys in 4 hotel rooms in the morning was not an easy task but was finally achieved about 12.  After a quick dip and shorebreak photo session while the rest packed I got my salt water in for the morning.  We headed west to Rincon about 2 hours away and arrived at our house where we were staying.  We all called beds and rooms in the 3 story house and then grabbed the boards, slid some fins in and headed out at Sandy Beach, right out front for our first session.  The Sandy swell was just hitting and was about head high on the sets.  A fun session.  I ran in after a bunch of waves and switched for my water setup and shot some shore break photos as the sun dipped into the evening sky.  We meet after dinner and discuss the mornings plans.  It is suppose to get 10-15ft and according to some locals, all time.

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