Day 11 – Lance’s rights comes alive and we leave the Florida conditions behind.

We rise to Macaronies where its side shore and pouring rain.  Pretty much impossible for me to shoot, so surfing it is.  We all caught a handful of waves amongst the other boats and surf camp.  With the population rising and the conditions not improving a tribal council was called at breakfast and we made the decision to head north.  Lance’s rights was on the menu.  It was a 2 hour trip north as we all rested, including myself.  Nearly there, we spotted 3 other boats at the break.  Tim could see with the binocs that it was pumping with off shore winds.  We launched the tin with a few of us to go up ahead and get on it.  We rolled up and it was perfect.  4ft with 6ft sets.  Best waves so far of the trip.  Within an hour 2 other boats pulled up and there were nearly 30 guys in the lineup.  The local grooms were owning it though.  That became a frustration for everyone in the lineup.  There were some epic barrels and even more epic wipeouts.  Doug won the award for wipeout of the day.  Keep in mind Doug is 62 and surfs more waves than anyone else on the trip!  He is a grom frothing out there.  First wave he got pitched and somersaulted in the barrel.  An “ohhhhh” came from the peanut gallery on the tin as I shot from the channel with three lenses and two bodies.   We had front row seats to the show.  Andy got a bunch of waves and pulled into a couple nuggets.  After a couple hours of dodging the madness nearly everyone was in the tin boat but we are all just watching it go down and hadn’t headed back to the boat yet.

Today’s lineup highlight came when two guys paddled out on a paddle board, one on the back and one standing on the front.  You could just barely see, the guy in front had straps on.  It looked like he was strapped onto the front of the paddleboard?  Either way, they paddled out to the front of the lineup and it seemed absolute chaos would insue upon their attempt at surfing a set wave.  Eventually a huge set would come and the front guy with the paddled starting paddling for the wave.  We all thought, oh god here goes the worst wipeout ever.  Just as the wave started to crest the guy leaped off the SUP and was strapped into a tiny finless board and got absolutely pitted.  Our jaws were dropped.  The crazy things I see and this  was a pretty epic one!  He attempted later again but didn’t make it with another guy pulling in on the shoulder.  Noel decided to go diving for lobsters after taking off on a set too far inside and wins the award for best reef inspection.  He paddled back to the tin with a torn jersey and battle wounds across his back with a good laceration on his foot.  During this session Tim and Skylar were fishing with poppers and each caught a giant travale or GT.  This would be our lunch the next day!

We eventually headed back to the Indies and rinsed off.  The decision was made to continue north the next 5 hours.  All the docs checked out Noels foot and Frank did a mini workshop with Tim the chef on stitches. They put in 4 stitches in Noels foot.  The second real injury of the trip.  Noel was fine though as he was taking in Bintangs(beer) like it was spring water.  After dinner we watched the past three days of footage and had a good laugh or two.  Tim rounded it out with the crowd favorite, Magnum chocolate bars that quickly put us to sleep!

Thanks to my awesome supporters!  – Providing me with the best travel bags and gear – Sun Bum – Protecting my skin in the sun! – Making the best Water Housing for my iPhone!
Cressi dive gear and Fanatic Paddleboards

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